How to fix dead grass: give your garden a new lease of life

Image of yellow grass, lawn rust
(Image credit: Pexels Photo)

Learning how to fix dead grass is essential to achieving that perfect patch of green. For many of us, a backyard with a lush lawn is what we dream of. And no wonder: green is proven to make us feel good. It’s calming, it’s cooling, and it’s good for our mental well-being. So, learning how to fix dead grass will help you relax on your lawn, kick back, and feel your troubles melt away.

The first step to fixing dead grass is a little light detective work. You need to find out exactly why your lawn is suffering. The good news is that most of our standard lawn problems have pretty simple solutions. So once you know what’s going on under the soil’s surface, you’ll know how to fix the problem so you can get back to maintaining your lush, green lawn with the best gas lawn mowers or the best electric lawn mowers.

Whether it’s a pest, a disease, the weather, or your pet that’s to blame, you can fix patchy grass by reseeding or re-turfing. Alternatively, there are also other ways to give your lawn the appropriate treatment to help it recover.

How to fix dead grass

Whether you’re a perfectionist or you happily tolerate moss and a few weeds, patches of dead grass are a problem. Occasionally, they can be symptomatic of an issue that could, in time, kill off your entire lawn. So, it pays to get to the root of the problem fast. We asked consultant David Hedges-Gower, founder of the Lawn Association, for his help to solve this common lawn problem. “It’s all about being your own lawn expert,” he says.

Problem #1: Dog urine

David says the most common cause of lawn die-off is your lovable pet. “A patch of dog urine is a huge shot of ammonia,” says David. “This is a type of fertilizer, hence the green ring. But the concentration in the middle is enormous.” So how to fix it? You can aerate the soil with a hollow-tine fork and flush through with water to help reduce the ammonia level in the soil. 

Problem #2: Smaller lawn pests

What the expert says…

David Hedges Gower reflects on the most challenging lawn fix he ever encountered on a roof. “The soil was extremely shallow, and it was tough to grow grass. We couldn’t increase the growing medium but had to improve it by using more organic feed and soil conditioners. Of course, most of us aren’t constrained by shallow soil, so we have all we need to have a healthy lawn. We must understand how that super-plant works and give it the conditions for optimum growth. And those are air, water, sunshine, and nutrients.”

Chafer grubs and leatherjackets are perhaps the most damaging lawn pests. Fat, white chafer grubs are the larvae of chafer beetles, which mature between spring and autumn. They feed on grass roots, causing yellow patches. Then, birds, foxes, or raccoons might root around to dig out the tasty grubs. The result can be devastating.

Special nematodes (Heterorhabditis bacteriophora), effective only in warm weather, are a biological treatment. However, depending on the damage, you might need to reseed or returf. “I prefer seed,” says David. “With seed, you get three or four varieties. This means you'll dominate the grass seed that will enjoy growing in your soil.” 

Grey-brown leatherjacket grubs (the larvae of crane flies) can similarly affect your lawn. Cover the affected area with black plastic overnight; the next day, they will come to the surface. Again, treat in summer with nematodes specific to leather jackets.

A dog lying on dead grass

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Problem #3: Lawn diseases

Most lawn diseases hit in wet weather, from late summer to winter. Lawn rust disease, for example, turns a lawn yellow, and you’ll see orange spores on the undersides of grass blades. It’s rarely a big problem, but your best solution is to mow regularly and remove the clippings. You can also improve air circulation by pruning overhanging shrubs and trees. 

Red thread is a fungal disease that can appear in autumn or wet summers. Look closely, and you’ll see its pinkish tinge.” It only kills leaf blades, not the plant,” says David, but you can help affected patches recover by applying liquid iron. Scarifying and aerating will improve drainage and help to guard against future attacks.

Patches of yellowing, dying grass in wet weather could be the fungal disease fusarium patch, aka snow mold. You might see a cottony fungal growth, too. Again, the best remedy is to improve aeration, drainage, and airflow by scarifying, aerating, and cutting back overhanging tree growth. “An application of liquid iron will dry the plants and stop the fungus feeding off the moisture,” advises David. 

Problem #4: Over or underwatering

If your lawn isn't getting enough water, it can lead to dry, dead patches. This is particularly common during hot or dry weather, when the grass may not be able to absorb enough moisture.

On the other hand, too much water can suffocate the roots and cause fungal diseases. Over-watering can also promote root rot.

Problem #5: Chemical reactions

When you don't apply fertilizers or herbicides correctly, you can get chemical burns, which can leave brown or dead patches.

'Dead' grass might not necessarily be dead

If your grass has irregular brown patches in dry weather, drought could be the cause. This might be more visible around trees or along their roots. How you deal with this will largely depend on you, although David advises a relaxed approach. “Grass has adapted over the millions of years it’s been here. Water is a finite resource, and grass is adaptable. Think of it as temporary hibernation; it will return once the rains come.” 

Francesca Clarke

Francesca is a garden designer, writer and consultant based in southeast London, UK. Francesca is a member of the Garden Media Guild and has written for a handful of well- known UK titles, including Country Homes & Interiors and Ideal Home. When she’s not in her own garden, designing someone else’s garden or writing about gardens, you might find her supping a pint of craft ale at one of her local pubs.